The journal

Notes from
the workshop.

Fabrics, fittings, construction. One thing at a time, written the way we would explain it to you in the chair.

Suits, occasion by occasion.

A wedding, a Monday meeting, black tie, a flight, an August afternoon in Coral Gables. The occasion decides the fabric before it decides the color.

Bespoke, made to measure, off the rack.

Three words used for what looks like the same thing. What each one actually changes, and the three questions that tell you which one you are being sold.

Tailoring what you already own.

Most garments are thrown out long before they stop being garments. A seam let out, a sleeve shortened, a lining replaced: the cheaper answer is usually the quieter one.

Where the fabrics come from.

Five Italian mills we return to, many more on the shelf, and one fabric woven for us alone. What that choice actually changes in a finished jacket.

Two fittings, and what each one is for.

The first takes the measurements. The second is the fitting, and by the end of it you forget you are wearing it.

How to Dress Well to Increase Confidence and Success

Most of what people call confidence in a suit is actually fit. Here is the part that is mechanical.